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Posts Tagged ‘ Naples ’

A Beautiful Game No More

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In the last number of weeks, we have been treated to a flurry of high-profile football games, with clashes at the top of the Premier League, big name ties in the FA Cup and the return of the Champions League with the first knock-out round. But did any of those big games bring about a truly enjoyable and competitive game? And if not, why not?

This week’s Champions League ties saw Barcelona take on Manchester City and Bayern Munich against Arsenal. All four teams would have to be considered expansive and attacking in their play, and with both English sides at home, the onus was on them to come out and attack. In theory, we were set up for two classic encounters with sides attacking and counter-attacking constantly. Yet the City game in particular was a huge disappointment. Manuel Pellegrini’s side have averaged 3.5 goals per home game, but ceded ground to the Catalan side from the off, which must have been why Aleksandar Kolarov was picked to play from the left wing. They only looked vaguely threatening and hugely dependent on Yaya Toure to roam forward from midfield and David Silva to create the chances. In fairness, it almost came off when Silva played in Alvaro Negredo, who rounded the goalkeeper only to be driven too wide to apply the finish. By and large though, City were happy to sit back and soak up the pressure, and their attacks were few and far between.

They were largely successful in containing Barcelona until their defensive unit were complicit in giving up the lead. Barca won the ball up the field, Vincent Kompany dropped too deep too fast and played on Lionel Messi, and Martin Demichelis brought him down, giving up the penalty and earning a red card, and changing the complexion of the game from then on. It’s almost impossible to play gung ho against this Barca team at the best of times, but with ten men it becomes time to batten down the hatches. It is interesting to note that it was Jesus Navas, as well as Kolarov, who got withdrawn, as he had the genuine pace that could have offered City a swift counter-attacking option.

The Arsenal game was fairly similar, in that it was changed by the red card to goalkeeper Wojciech Szczesny, but really by that time Munich had taken hold of the game. But Arsenal did come out and play hard and fast for the first fifteen minutes, making Bayern look like a ragged bunch of journeymen. This spell culminated with the penalty won and missed by Mesut Ozil, who was presented with the chance to answer the bandwagon jumpers who have blamed him for most of Arsenal’s problems of late. Unfortunately for him and that game, he missed and the belief seemed to transfer from the Arsenal players to Bayern’s almost immediately. Arsenal barely had an attack of note after that, and certainly none after the red card.

In the case of Champions League ties, the home tie is a tricky one, given the importance of away goals. Even though the crowd are roaring you on and looking to take a lead for the away leg, it may suit a lot of teams to come out with a nil-nil, knowing a score draw in the next leg would see them through. For instance, if City had registered a scoreless draw the other night, would it have seemed farfetched that they could have nodded in a couple of goals from corners or free kicks in the Camp Nou, and put the game beyond Barcelona? Down a man, it is obviously pertinent to minimise the damage, and the couple of away goals both sides gave up mean they are highly unlikely to overturn the deficit and win their ties.

Pellegrini clearly has a lot of fear when thinking of this Barcelona side. Who wouldn’t? He has seen this team first hand a little too often for his own good in the last ten years, as he managed Villareal, Real Madrid and Malaga against them in La Liga during their pomp. It is unlikely he didn’t carry battle scars from all those encounters, and they possess great weapons. But Man City went away from their own strengths in the face of all this, when really they might have been better served by trying to put them on the back foot. Going forward, Barca’s most impressive player was Dani Alves, but he was on a yellow card from early on and is not the most accomplished defender on the planet, could they not have looked to exploit him more? Fortune favours the bold, and Man City had the team that could have troubled Barca a lot more than they did.

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What made these games in particular quite dull affairs was the possession-based game plan of both winning sides. As Bayern and Barca camped out in the English sides halves for the second half of their games, who was visibly enthralled? Toni Kroos smashed in a beautiful goal from outside the box, but Bayern didn’t really carve Arsenal open. Rafinha and Alves as full backs were the most incisive players of the midweek action as they had lots of space when defenders were already sucked in, but Bayern had to resort to lumping on big centre forwards to get the second goal. Nothing wrong with it, but they weren’t exactly cutting holes in the Arsenal rearguard by passing slowly and laterally outside the box. It was dull.

There is a trend in football now, largely thanks to the successes of Barcelona in the last decade, to play possession-based attacking games. Hog the ball, wear down your opponent, wait for your moment when the concentration levels drop, then pounce.  This has seen the rise of the offensive full-back, who is seemingly the player with the most space available to them. In turn, it now seems the centre-back is the new full-back, as the wider areas are closed down and the middle is where the space lies, so if you are lucky enough to have a centre-back with good ball skills they can drive forward and pick a pass, allowing your team to recycle possession effectively. But it is this type of dominant attacking that is making games less open. Opponents are generally pinned back and have to play with a defensive mind-set. There have been examples of teams capable of getting results with strong counter-attacking, such as Gareth Bale’s Spurs (no offense, AVB) and Jose Mourinho’s Inter Milan team. These sides were able to take advantage of the major weakness of teams like Barca and Bayern, which is the defensive side of the game. Inter were able to knock out Barcelona and eventually win the Champions League by attacking when the moment was right, and defending solidly otherwise. But teams down the bottom of the league rarely have the speed of thought found in that Inter team’s Samuel Eto’o or Wesley Sneijder, nor the clinical finishing of Diego Milito. Thus, they spend the whole game defending and more or less awaiting the inevitable.

Even away from the elite teams in Europe, this trend can still be the case. The Europa League game between Swansea and Napoli had a similar plot. Swansea were always going to enforce their possession game too, but with all due respect they are not at the same standard as Barca or Bayern. The Napoli line-up was also one that boasted great talent, particularly going forward with the tremendous Gonzalo Higuain and the high profile Marek Hamsik, as well as winger Lorenzo Insigne who has played for Italy and Jose Callejon, who came through the ranks for Real Madrid before making a summer move to Naples. Add in counter-attacking away-leg specialist Rafa Benitez (see; any successful Liverpool European tie during his reign), and this should have been a rip-roaring tie with back and forth attacks. Unfortunately, not the case. Swansea played well but didn’t create too many clear chances, while Napoli were quite poor and resigned themselves to defending from early on.

Liverpool have played Arsenal twice in the last few weeks, with the first game a one-sided slaughter as Liverpool exposed Arsenal’s defence repeatedly in the first twenty minutes. The game was over after those early exchanges, and the second game could have gone the same way, with Daniel Sturridge having two great chances early on. Admittedly, the FA Cup game was a much more competitive game than any of the others mentioned, particularly in the second half. But it still wasn’t an end to end kind of game, as Liverpool dominated possession while pushing for an equaliser. The dross served up in the Arsenal versus Manchester United fixture was perhaps explainable by the frailty of both sides. Arsenal were just coming off the hiding at Liverpool, while United have struggled all year as a particular game plan and style remains unclear.

This is not to say anything is wrong with being a strong defensive side. Some of the best games in history have been based on a strong defensive effort defying a ferocious attack, like the Italian win over Brazil in the 1982 World Cup. There is certainly an art to defending, and it seems to evade the Pep Guardiola inspired teams like Munich and Barcelona. But if opposing teams are unwilling or unable to launch attacks and get at their back four, they will continue to get steamrollered. A fascinating encounter (not unlikely after the first leg results) would be a two-legged affair between these two teams down the Champions League line. None of the other games mentioned were uninteresting in their own right, but a tie between Bayern Munich and Barcelona might give us the furious, frenetic end to end game we’d all love to see.

Images courtesy of uefa.com, uefa.com/AFP/Getty Images

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Don’t Go There – Six Places to Avoid Before You Die

According to people who travel, everywhere is brilliant. They return home with tale after slightly-irritating tale of mind-blowing experience and unforgettable adventure. “Oh you must go!” they say. And sometimes they are right. But sometimes they are not…

Travel photography from Ensenada and Tijuana, Mexico by Fat Tony.

Tijuana, Mexico

Every year tourists go missing in Tijuana. They wander off the beaten track, disappear, and become a statistic to be downplayed by the Mexican Tourist Board. Serves them right, you might say – those reckless enough to stray into the dark corners of a crime-ridden Mexican border town deserve everything they get. This criticism has some merit, but fails to take into account the hideousness of Tijuana’s beaten track, which is enough to drive anyone into the welcoming arms of a drug cartel.

Avenida Revolucion – Tijuana’s gringo epicentre – specialises in providing a certain type of fun: the type that really isn’t. Everything on the ‘Revo’ takes place within a miasma of throbbing neon and hysterical hawkers for whom ‘no’ does not mean ‘no’, it means ‘please follow, annoy, and ultimately insult me’.

Those who attempt to take refuge in a bar may be confronted by Tijuana’s esoteric approach to pricing, whereby visitors enter an establishment having been promised ‘Ten Beers for Ten Dollars!’ and leave having been charged fifty for five. Other highlights include drunk Americans, loud Americans, puking Americans, and hapless donkeys painted to look like zebras.

In fairness it’s not all bad – the city boasts an excellent cultural centre, and just to the south there’s a rather splendid country called Mexico. Tijuana also succeeds in making nearby San Diego look slightly better in comparison, which is not an insignificant achievement.

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Naples, Italy

First impressions are notoriously unreliable. For example, wisdom and experience would tell a person exiting Naples train station to ignore their initial misgivings – areas around rail termini are always a bit depressing, right? It can’t all be this bad. Unfortunately on this occasion wisdom and experience would be wrong.

Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi – a sprawling, chaotic void of ugliness – offers those arriving by train their first confrontation with Naples. As with elsewhere in the city, cars rule the roost here – the cacophony of horns muffled only slightly by the polluted air – and within a couple of Italian profanities visitors will learn that Neapolitan drivers stop for nothing, including red lights.

Those who forge deeper into Naples in search of the ‘nice bit’ will forge in vain. Its wilful disregard of cleanliness and civic pride is almost admirable, but ultimately the incessant battle of crowd and vehicle, the noise, the ubiquitous graffiti and dirt just prove sapping.

“Sapping?” I hear a dissenting voice say. This is the famous Napoli ‘pazzia’ – the crazy spirit of the city that seduces visitors and makes them rediscover life! And admittedly if rudeness, grime, pickpockets and rubbish piled metres high in the streets make you feel alive then Naples will be nothing short of an elixir.

As redeeming features go, Napoli’s pizzas and ice creams aren’t bad. Unfortunately the city’s culinary attractions also had the misfortune to feature heavily in Eat Pray Love, without doubt the worst film this side of Gigli, and are therefore now as sullied as the rest of this Mafia hole.

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Santa Cruz, USA

In a way it’s reassuring to know that Americans can do tacky, soul-withering seaside towns just as well as the Irish and Brits. The word ‘California’ usually conjures up images of beautiful people doing beautiful things in beautiful places – a semi-mythical zone where dreams supposedly come true. And if you dream of grim beaches, morbid fairgrounds and motel monotony then Santa Cruz will confirm this stereotype.

Some say that Americans struggle with irony, and those of us who reject this thesis should not rush to call Santa Cruz as a witness for the defence. While the Blackpool’s of this world bask in a kiss-me-quick, self-mocking kind of tawdriness, Santa Cruz is woefully bereft of such European cynicism, and apparently genuinely believes itself to be good.

It is not. The pride of the town is its boardwalk, which is meant to revive rose-tinted memories of a different era, a time when vacations were all about dance halls and candyfloss. Unfortunately it just comes across as a sickly cliché, restored to within an inch of its life in order to extract the sentimental dollar – in short the kind of pre-packed nostalgia created on a boardroom flipchart.

But then again, if there’s one thing small town America does well, it is bars with all the personality and atmosphere of a doctor’s waiting room. Santa Cruz supplies an ample number of these establishments, complete with the dreaded karaoke machine. And while karaoke can be entertaining, in Santa Cruz it tends to involve earnest renditions of Tammy Wynette or Garth Brooks songs, rendering it about as much fun as the rest of the town.

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Townsville, Australia

A well-trodden tourist route, the East Coast of Australia offers stunning scenery, adventure, picture-postcard beaches and buzzing towns. How Townsville managed to crash this party is anyone’s guess. For those departing Cairns this is the first stop on the road to Sydney, and most will wish they hadn’t.

There is nothing particularly horrendous about Townsville – it is simply a place where it is difficult to imagine anything happening. Ever. Perhaps being given such a stunningly generic name has, like a self-fulfilling prophecy, rendered the city a stale, characterless non-entity.

But while its real name is appropriate, its nickname more poetically captures the aesthetics of the place:  ‘Brownsville’ largely consists of dust, industrial estates and closed shops. There is a massive army base, which gives a military edge to the stagnant nightlife, and a waterfront area – which is notable for being near some water.

For many young European backpackers, bedazzled by Australia’s sparkling, lush cities, Townsville will be the first realisation that, yes, even Australia has crap towns. In fact those heading south will soon find themselves in another one – Rockhampton takes all the mediocre bits of Townsville, adds a couple of ugly bridges, and does it all over again. 

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Lima, Peru

Apparently the Dickensian sea fog that squats over Lima does occasionally lift, and on such occasions the city may well be a more appealing prospect. Unfortunately, for the rest of the time, Peru’s capital is murky, claustrophobic, anarchic and miserable.

Wildly overpopulated, Lima creaks under the strain of 8 million souls. A constant boom of traffic fills the downtown air, while negotiating the crowded pavements requires an exhausting level of vigilance.

Coastal zones, such as the affluent Miraflores district, seem to represent more standard tourist fare, but the skyscraper hotels and designer outlets are so bizarrely incongruous to Lima’s overall feel that these areas feel more like some ghastly Hollywood backdrop transplanted into a seething South American sprawl.

Most of Lima’s architecture is brittle and foreboding, and what remains of the original colonial streetscape has long since capitulated under a mask of pollution. Glimpses of greenery and beauty occur, but their fleeting presence is but a sad, soulful chord in an atonal symphony of chaos.

And all the while, the fog keeps rolling in….


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Oslo, Norway

It’s entirely appropriate that this selection of disappointments should end with a damp squib – a damp, dark, extortionate squib. Oslo is quite within its rights to offer little in the way of excitement, but when it compounds this with the highest prices in Europe we are surely entering biscuit-taking territory.

Oslo is one of those places that, struggling to fill even the flimsiest of city guides, shamelessly promotes anything within a 500 mile radius as an ‘attraction’. Ski slopes, fjords, stunning Scandanavian scenery: all part of Oslo’s appeal apparently. Once you get out of Oslo.

Within the city limits recreational options dry up pretty quickly: a couple of fusty galleries and a museum or two. One such building is dedicated to Edvard Munch, the man responsible for perhaps Oslo’s most famous export – The Scream. This painting depicts a man standing on one of the city’s bridges, omitting an existential shriek of despair. Perhaps his flight out of Oslo had been cancelled.

The Case for the Defence

“Tijuana, the town on the ‘most crossed border in the world’ remains a remarkably friendly jungle, a fascinating, vibrant cocktail of cultures that’s fun for people-watching even if you’re not planning on participating.” Lonely Planet

“Naples is not so much a city of sights as just a great place to be, particularly its dense Centro Historico. Spend a couple of days here and you’re likely to be as staunch a defender of the place as its most devoted inhabitants.” Rough Guides

“The beautiful beaches and the year-round summer-like climate play a central role in local culture. Most visitors leave Santa Cruz amazed by the city’s beauty and ambiance.” Wikitravel

“Townsville boasts an average of 300 days of sunshine each year. Combining this glorious sunshine with a relaxed lifestyle and a diversity of attractions, Townsville is the perfect choice for a North Queensland holiday experience.” Discoveraustralia.com

“Unfairly undervalued, Lima is a warm and vivid city with much to offer, from magnificent museums to a sparkling nightlife. Above all, Lima’s gastronomic scene is, simply put, superb.” The Peru Guide

“What sets Oslo apart from other European cities is not so much its cultural traditions or its internationally renowned museums as its simply stunning natural beauty.” Fodor’s

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